Wine & Words

This week we're introducing a couple of primo wines for summer, as well as bringing back the Sangria Classico that quenched our thirsts so well last summer. And...we're cutting you in on an extraordinary deal in summer Chardonnay.
 
First, the deal. One of the nice things that develops through years of doing business with the same great people is that we occasionally get invited to participate in sales events that are usually reserved for the big guys. A week or so ago I got a call from my old friend Tim Turner who was "helping a friend" clear his warehouse of a 2006 premium Chardonnay from Australia so he could bring in the new vintage. The deal was supposed to be for "big guys" who deal in lots of from 10 to 50 cases of wine at a time. Well, I'm just a "little guy" who usually buys in single case lots. Anyway, Tim offered me one of the big guy deals, and since he is one of the few people from whom I will buy wine without tasting it first, I went for it. Here's the deal:
Printhie Chardonnay (Orange, New South Wales, Australia) Regular $16.50/ Special Purchase Price $8.50 (until it's gone)
This wine has a lovely label, with the outline of a hawk soaring above a mountain that is surrounded by trees in autumn foliage. There's only one troubling word on the label and that's "ORANGE." Now to most American wine drinkers, the word "orange" means a tropical citrus fruit or its flavors. Well, fear not, there is no orange juice, orange muscat or orange peel in this wine. It comes from a region known as Orange in the state of New South Wales, about 100 miles inland from Sydney, on Australia's southeast coast. This region is a bit farther north than the better know Australian wine regions outside of Melbourne; and remember, in the southern hemisphere north usually means warmer. The Printhie folks nail down cool weather grape growing, though, by planting their vineyards at about 3,400' above sea level. That's why they call themselves "Wines with Altitude."
 
Aussie wine writers are pretty high on this Printhie Chardonnay:

"Fragrant and elegant, its cool-climate characters nailed to the masthead; white peach and nectarine fruit is supported by subtle French oak; good line and length. 94/100" James Halliday Australian Wine Companion 2010

"Plenty of stone fruit in this cool-climate Orange bargain. It trades on purity and direct fruit presence, mixing citrus and peachy/nectarine stone fruits threaded together with zesty, fresh acidity, with pears in the finish. Balanced and ready for enjoyment." Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide 2010

 
I tasted the wine a couple of nights ago with a dish of stir-fried veggies and rice that Chef Yvonne and I whipped up. It has a nice acidity for a wine of its age, as well as a comforting note of oak that was a good foil for the Middle Eastern spice we put in the stir fry. Tim was right; this is a very drinkable wine at an amazingly good price. You won't want to miss it. Since it is a special close-out deal, when it's gone...it's gone.
 
Tangent Ecclestone (San Luis Obispo, California) Regular 21.95/ Feature $17.56
Now for the premium white introduction in the group. This is another wine I haven't actually tasted, but I'm bringing it in on the recommendation of another wine person whose judgment I trust completely...Mary Mehlich, our Store Manager at Wine & Words...& Gourmet in Washington. Mary had the opportunity to taste the wine with the person who succeeded her in her old job of wine sales rep. I wasn't able to be at the tasting, but Mary gave me a copy of her notes. Next to the technical notes about the Tangent Ecclestone, she wrote, "Outstanding!!"
 
The tangent wines from French winemaker Christian Roguenant are named for that line that just grazes the edge of a circle, the circle being everyone else, while these wines go off on a tangent. tangent wines are only white, no reds allowed. And no Chardonnay either...that would put us back into the circle.
 
The grapes are grown outside the usual north-of-San Francisco circle, too, in the Edna Valley (San Luis Obispo County). This region is on California's Central Coast, south of Big Sur, only four miles from the ocean. The valley is unusual in that it runs east-west, which allows cool Pacific air and fog to slide in overnight, making it one of the coolest winegrowing regions in the world. This makes for a longer growing season, which means that by the time the grapes get truly ripe, they have terrific acidity. The berry clusters hang on the vine an average of three weeks longer than most other growing regions, developing concentrated flavors and intense aromatics while ripening.
 
tangent wines are made in California by veteran winemaker Christian Roguenant, who brings more than 20 years of winemaking experience, encompassing many countries and five continents. Born in Burgundy and educated in Dijon, Christian cut his winemaking teeth on Champagne, then California sparkling wine. In this process, grapes are picked at higher acid levels than for traditional wines, and fermented in stainless steel. Oak influence is not generally used, and the finished still wines are fresh and crisp with solid acid structure. When challenged to bring that skill to the making of still, white wines Roguenant jumped at the chance.
 
The tangent Ecclestone is a complex blend of pretty much every white varietal they grow (except Chardonnay) - 37% Pinot Gris, 34% Viognier, 12% Riesling, 8% Pinot Blanc, 4% Albarinho, 4% Muscat Canelli and 1% Orange Muscat. It has 5.5% residual sugar, so there is a hint of sweetness, but that is cut by the crisp acidity of the grapes. The blend yields a thoughtful complexity as you try to sort out where all those flavors are coming from. And then the wine finishes clean and long...making you want another sip or another bite of your favorite food. Come in and try this wine. Then let Mary know she should go on a tangent more often, because with this one she's hit the bullseye.
 
Felix Solis Sangria Classico (Spain), 1.5 L bottle, everyday low price $12.50
Last summer, we got this bottled Sangria a little late in the season. But when it did come in, it was hugely popular. This year, we're bringing it back just in time for easy summer drinking. There's nothing fancy about this, but it's very well made, from real Spanish red wine and fruit flavors. You can keep the big screw-cap bottle in the fridge, then pour it over ice and add some fresh or frozen fruit or a little soda to taste.  It's only 7% alcohol, so you can drink it as a thirst quencher. We'll be pouring it by the glass at Back Bay Cafe, and both stores will keep you supplied all summer long. Come in and give it a try.
 
Charles & Charles Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) Regular Price $14.40/ Feature Price $11.52
Our last Feature, "Grillin' & Chillin'," introduced you to the dynamic duo of Charles Smith (maker of the great Eve Chardonnay and Velvet Devil Merlot) and Charles Bieler, rosé of Provence entrepreneur. The introduction took the form of the Charles & Charles Rosé of Syrah that has proved to be a powerful wedge into American wine drinkers' resistance to pink wine. Now comes along a full-throated red from the same two winemakers, this time a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
 
This wine is a perfect example of why I'm coming to love the wines of the Pacific Northwest. It's got loads of fruit but finishes clean and dry, making it a fine companion for summertime grilling...or just a fine companion. I was a little concerned about the 14.5% alcohol, but the luscious fruit carries the alcohol well, with no sense of heat or burn. Still, I'd chill this one just a tad for summertime drinking. It's a great addition to our Pacific Northwest list.