Wine & Words

This week we Feature two wines from the winery of Konstantin D. Frank & Sons in on Keuka Lake near Hammondsport, NY.  This is the upstate New York Finger Lakes region, an area known for orchard fruits and Welch's Concord grape juice...until Dr. Kontantin Frank started what has been known as the "Vinifera Revolution."
A European immigrant, Dr. Frank and his family arrived in the United States in 1951. After a brief stay in New York City, Dr. Frank – a professor of plant sciences who held a Ph.D. in viticulture - moved upstate to take a position at Cornell University’s Geneva Experiment Station. At Geneva, Frank attempted to share with his colleagues his vision of growing Vitis Vinifera (European) grapes in the Finger Lakes, instead of the native Concord and Catawba (Vitis Labrusca) . His efforts were met by skepticism fueled by a 300-year history of failure growing European varieties in the East, and hampered by a language barrier (Dr. Frank spoke six languages fluently, but English wasn't one of them).
Dr. Frank believed from his years in the Ukraine that the lack of proper rootstock, not the cold climate, was the reason for the failure of Vitis Vinifera vines in the Finger Lakes region. He continued to promote his beliefs and to seek a sympathetic ear, which he found in Charles Fournier, a French champagne maker and president of nearby Gold Seal Vineyards. The two innovators shared not only a common vision for Finger Lakes wine, but also a common language, French.
Communicating in French, Dr. Frank revealed his research for growing the delicate European vinifera grape varieties in cold climates. For the first time the Northeastern United States could produce European varieties of wines. The revolution was underway!
Dr. Frank died in 1985 at the age of 86. His son, Willy continued the tradition until he passed away in March 2006. The legacy continues as Willy’s son Frederick manages the winery and continues the tradition of turning Dr. Frank wines into Gold Medal winners, not only in New York, but nationally and internationally.
Salmon Run Cold Brook White 2007 - Regular price $11.50, Feature price $9.20
Salmon Run Cold Brook White is a "proprietary blend", which means they don't tell you what's in it.  I think it's some combination of their Chardonnay and their Riesling.  It's just off-dry and very appealing with its fruity intensity, moderate acidity and smooth finish. This could become your favorite everyday white. 
Food Pairing:  It goes well with seafood or salads or sandwiches and is very pleasant on its own.  If you're coming  by the Back Bay Cafe, try it with our tasty Shrimp & Grits.
Salmon Run Pinot Noir 2007 - Regular price $11.50, Feature price $9.20
Lighter in body (you can see through the wine in the bottle) than the Salmon Run Petit Noir we've carried (and which is now out of stock), this wine shows very good Pinot Noir character with vibrant raspberry and cherry fruit, soft tannins, lively acidity and a long, clean finish.
I like the lightness of this wine, reflective of the cool temperatures of Upstate New York.  It's not over-ripe like some of the pinot's of Central Coast California and reminds me instead of the lovelies we're seeing come out of Oregon and Washington. 
Food Pairing:  The 12% (low) alcohol, coupled with pinot noir's natural acidity, makes this wine a great food companion.  I'd drink it with most anything, but at the Back Bay Cafe it will really by luscious with the Pork Tenderloin with Bourbon/Mustard Glaze.